The Southeastern Climbers Coalition

Kurt Smith has made a name for himself in the climbing world over the many years. Yosemite first ascentionist, Joshua Tree high-ball boulderer, big wall ace and hard core sport climbs in destinations down south. Kurt takes a little time to talk with the SCC and let us know what the real deal is.

SCC: When and where did you start climbing?

Kurt: 1979. My first trip to the Valley was spring break 1980. I had just gotten my drivers license and first pair of shoes and went to the Valley with Rick Lovelace.

SCC: Where did you grow up?

Kurt: I grew up in Lake Tahoe and started climbing @ 90' Wall and Donner Summit.

SCC: Who were your early mentors?

Kurt: John Bachar and Mike Lechinski. I spent my first winter in J.Tree right after I graduated 1982 and met John, Mike and the whole crew. I learned a lot of my ground up ethics from John, and he taught me to keep it cool on the run outs. Years of soloing with John taught me footwork and control.

SCC: You were a fixture in Yosemite for years. Can you tell us more about climbing in Yosemite and some of the characters there?

Kurt: Bachar, Yabo, Long and the rest were pushing the trad and me and my posse' ( Ken Ariza, Dave Hatchett and Rick Lovelace) were psyched to find those last few lines left and grab some F.A.'s. This has always been my highest priority and we bagged some good ones. The highlight was 1984 with the first Ascent of Burning Down the House, my first 5.12 on sight of Crimson Cringe, 3rd Ascent of Bachar-Yerian and the 4th ascent of Midnight Lighting. 1984 was a good year for me. The door was opened and I stepped in and never looked back.

SCC: Tell us about your early days sending high ball boulder problems.

Kurt: I started bouldering when I started climbing and bouldering has always been the best part of climbing for me. It used to be more committing than today. There were no cushy padded landings and you either sent, down climbed or went to the ER. You learned your limits and knew when to push it and when to step down. Mental was the biggest part of the game and where most people failed. I found my rhythm when I was pushed the hardest with the most to lose and usually came out on top. I almost broke my wrist when I first started working the lighting, but learned to land and find the biggest guys to spot!

When I sent the lighting I had Troy and Tracey, two ex-college linebackers spot me and after my first whip off the mantle, Troy caught me in mid air and set me down without touching the ground. That gave me the confidence to send it next try.

SCC: For years you spent a lot of time putting up long routes on big walls. Can you tell us more about that experience.

Kurt: There is nothing finer than getting off the deck and pushing your limits with nothing but air below. I was always intimidated by El Cap and it took quite a few ascents before I got comfortable up there. Then after some classic nail ups it was time to free climb on the big stone. The Muir Wall with Scott Cosgrove and Greg Epperson was the culmination of all those Yosemite years combined with those years in Rifle to then use those skills on El Cap. We freed 99% of it ground up with out support or frigging and more importantly had a good time among old friends.

SCC: What about the discover of Rifle and all the hard routes put up there. What was it like finding that place and putting up hard routes.

Kurt: Pete Zoeller and Phil Benningfield took Mike Pont and I there the weekend after their first trip and it was magic. An entire canyon of killer limestone with 3 routes established and a whole canvas to work with. It was a great 4 seasons of bliss, hanging with my friends and working projects and bolting the best lines we could find. My favorite route ended up being Movement of Fear 5.12c. This was a fun day because I solo bolted it ground up, cleaned it and sent it all in the same day! Does not get any better than that!

SCC: You have spent years down in Mexico and living on big walls. What routes stood out as your biggest achievement?

Kurt: The biggest achievement was not an achievement, but just the simple fact that I got people to come to Mexico and see what big wall sport climbing is all about. The first time I went to Mexico was with Jeff Jackson, and there were 12 routes at the time and I got really psyched and came back for 8 seasons because the lines were that good and would not be there forever. It is a rare gift in this day in age when you can find that much rock with that many good lines and have the pick of the litter. I wish the end was a good as the beginning, but we had fun while it lasted and made a ton of good friends along the way!

SCC: Any close calls or gripping experiences on those routes?

Kurt: Too many to tell. When your number is up, it is time to go!

SCC: So what are you up to now?

Kurt: Elaina and I moved to the New River Gorge and bought a house and with the help of Gene and Kenny bought New River Mt. Guides from Joe Crocker. I am a rep now for Gregory, Horny Toad, Montrail, Misty and Sterling Rope. I am enjoying my life and @ 40 I am starting my career! The whole S.E. is my territory and Elaina is running the guide service and climbing a ton. She is gonna be on bad ass trad girl soon!

SCC: Who are your sponsors?

Kurt: Too old to have sponsors any more! I work with my companies that I represent and do my best to climb when I have the time.

SCC: You do a ton of work with the Access Fund www.seclimbers.org and help out with many access related events. Why do you spend so much time on access... why not just go out and climb?
Kurt: Access is key! Without an open gate to our climbing areas we are stuck indoors or in front of the TV. We as climbers need to wake up and get off our asses if we want to keep climbing. The govt and land owners are getting hit from all sides to protect and preserve and we need to do the same but keep it open to use. I gave up 4 years of climbing to do the Kickin Access tour to try to get climbers aware of the issues and get active. It had to be done and was a good time had by all but climbing always suffers when there are more important issues and Access is #1 in my book. So word from the General: JOIN THE ACCESS FUND AND YOUR LOCAL ORG (SECLIMBERS.ORG) AND SPEND THE MEASLY $30 A YEAR THAT WOULD NORMALLY GO TOWARDS THAT SATURDAY NIGHT BAR SCENE AND KEEP OUR AREAS OPEN!!!!!!!!

SCC: You spend a lot of time behind the turn table spinning tunes and having a good time. What role does music and spinning have in your life?

Kurt: Im a hack Dj, but have enjoyed the process, so I'm sorry if you suffered through one of my sessions! But music has always been key to my motivation. I can't tell you how many times in the 80's when I would sit in my 69 VW bus in the morning racking up to Black Sabbath and Rush to get ready for the day. Countless times that session would produce the energy for the F.A.and then the name! Music drives the fire along with other influences.....

SCC: You have the mac-daddy van. Can you tell us about what all you've got going on in there?

Kurt: Elaina and I bought a used 2000 ford e-350 passenger van. We started out with customizing the inside with bed, storage and cooking area. Then saved up the money and had Sports Mobile do the conversion top and battery system. It is now mack comfy and perfect for the road. Vans are the only way to go!

SCC: Favorite basketball team?

Kurt: Pistons, since I was born in Detroit and they are the bad boys! Football is Philly, but I think Vick and Falcons have a good shot at it. I always root for the underdog and as long as someone beats The Pats this year I will be cool. I am a long time Raider fan!

SCC: Can you leave us with some good music-tunes to check out?

Kurt: Rush Permanent Waves for the old school mix. Or check out DJ Baby Anne for the hottest break beat lady on the decks!

SCC: Thanks for the interview, Kurt

Kurt: Peace out see ya on the road.......