Land Manager: Southeastern Climbers Coalition

Native Lands: ᏣᎳᎫᏪᏘᏱ Tsalaguwetiyi (Cherokee, East), Shawandasse Tula (Shawanwaki/Shawnee),  S’atsoyaha (Yuchi) (from Native-land.ca)

Area Rep: Michael O’Donnell

 

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PRESS RELEASE

 

Woodcock Cove is near the small town of Dunlap, in Sequatchie County, TN. The area is approximately a one hour drive from Chattanooga, and a two hour drive from Nashville and Knoxville. Woodcock Cove includes several established crags known as The Dispensary, Stillhouse, Mine and Red Baron Wall, in addition to extensive potential for new routes at all grades.

The Southeastern Climbers Coalition worked with private landowners to purchase a 64 acre tract and subsequent landswap to secure a significant portion of cliffline in Woodcock Cove. An impressive mile-long cliff offers continuous single-pitch sport and traditional climbs. The rock is high quality, distinct and on par with all the classic crags of the Cumberland Plateau. Established routes range from 5.8 to 5.13. There are extensive sections that appear to offer excellent climbing at more “moderate” grades. There are approximately 50-60 routes established, but there is potential for at least 100 more routes, and possibly more.

While initial funding has secured Woodcock Cove, SCC needs the help of local climbers and conservationists to raise $209,000 over the next 3 years to pay off the conservation loans to complete the purchase. We need the entire community’s help to pay off this loan.

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Directions

This crag is not open to the public until critical infrastructure (access road, parking lot, trails) are built. We are hosting trail days all summer and fall – if you are interested in checking out Chattanooga’s newest crag, sign up for a trail day and we can climb afterwards! Please do not visit this property until access is fully established and open so that we can maintain good relations with our neighbors.

What to Expect

Good mix of trad and sport routes ranging from 5.8 – 5.13 +

Access notes

  • This property is currently NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC. Please sign up for a Trail Day to get to visit and check it out!
  • Do not park in undesignated areas, including the road or neighbors property.
  • Permanent and semi-permanent slings and webbing should not be left on any route.
  • Bolting with permission only. Contact the SCC to obtain a bolting permit.
  • Guiding, commercial operations, events, and group usage by permit only. Contact SCC for approval.
  • Do not leave valuables in your car.

Camping

No Camping Available, but plenty of lodging in the nearby town of Dunlap or camping offered by surrounding Tennessee State Parks.

Guidebook

No guidebook exists at the moment, but if you come to a trail day, an SCC rep will show you all the routes!

 

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