Land Manager: Alabama State Parks

Native Lands:  ᏣᎳᎫᏪᏘᏱ Tsalaguwetiyi (Cherokee, East) , S’atsoyaha (Yuchi) , Shawandasse Tula (Shawanwaki/Shawnee)  (from Native-land.ca)

Area Rep: Bernard Wolfe, pieceoflight@hotmail.com

 

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Buck’s Pocket is a pristine area tucked into the folds of North Alabama’s Sand Mountain region. Distinguished as a geographical barrier, a dividing line between counties, Buck’s Pocket climbing embodies an aura of remoteness that is unmatched within the state.  There is also some strange local lore about the area being a haven for defeated politicians.

From a rock climbing perspective, Buck’s Pocket varies in quality, but for those willing to hunt, a true gem can be found. What this place can offer is truly in-line with its history; it is a haven where one can escape from the troubles of life without having to go too far out of the way.

The history of rock climbing in this area is very hazy and likely most of Buck’s secrets have been lost over time. In some of the more recent years, Blake Rast, Brad Killough, Adam Henry, Andrew Hamiter, Bernard Wolfe and Tim Diegman have all been named as route developers in the area.  In more recent years Nolan Fulton, David Moore, Colin Daughtery, Steven Roth and Will Patternson have gone hunting for gems and put up a handful of lines.

Please respectfully enjoy this area and abide by all park rules.

Written in collaboration with Will Patterson. 

https://www.alapark.com/parks/bucks-pocket-state-park

Directions

Note that there is a road that goes through the canyon and it is sometimes closed due to high water.

There is virtually no cell phone service once you are within 20 minutes of the park and for the duration of your visit.  Please plan accordingly to obtain your day pass from the office and do not cross the water when the road is closed.

Google Maps

What to Expect

Now, in partnership with Buck’s Pocket State Park, we have officially ushered in climbing at Buck’s Pocket! You can obtain a day use pass from the self-service kiosk at the campground.  Trad, sport climbing, and bouldering are allowed, and if you are looking to place fixed hardware, you will need to obtain a programmatic permit through the process below.

Access notes

Please do your part to keep this area scenic and wild for all generations to enjoy.

  • Obtain a day pass from the self-serve kiosk at the campground. 
  •  The primary flood season is during the winter, if the road to the campground is closed on the side you want to climb, please climb with integrity & pay double on your return visit.
  • No topping out sport routes/trad routes. All climbing to stay below the cliffline with a 3 ft buffer.  
  • Leave no trace – follow all park LNT principles
  • Fixed hardware placement/bolting with permission only. Contact the SCC to obtain a permit. See below “development section for more details” for more details.
  • Pets must be on a leash at all times
  • Keep noise to a minimum

See the full list of rules on Alabama Park’s website.

    Camping

    There are tent camping and RV spots available at Buck’s Pocket.  You can reserve those here: 

    https://www.alapark.com/bucks-pocket-state-park/renovated-campground

    Guidebook

    Mountain Project

    Development: 

    To get plugged into bouldering development, please email info@seclimbers.org.

    Route development processes are in place. To apply for a programmatic permit for development at Buck’s Pocket, please fill out the form below.  Applications are reviewed monthly.  Please note that by filling out this form you have started the application process, this does not automatically give you permission to begin route development.  To check on the status of your application, please email info@seclimbers.org

    https://forms.gle/8JZKhQoXQZKBquF77

    Individual volunteers across Alabama, Georgia & Tennessee do the tough work of developing new routes for everyone to enjoy. SCC does not actively manage or supervise route development. Rather, we provide standards and guidelines that we recommend route developers follow. We also help parks and land managers develop standards and guidelines for route development on their land and act as a liaison between route developers and land managers. Accordingly, SCC assumes no liability for route development; this information is for the convenience of the climbing community only. Climb at your own risk and use your own judgment to evaluate any route and the fixed hardware placed there.

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