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Hank Smith climbs Luther's Fury.
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Kings Bluff is owned and maintained by the SCC!! The entrance is locked and
gated, however the combination is available to climbers. Just visit the
Southeastern Climber's Coalition message board or stop by North Cumberland
Outfitters on New Ashland City Rd across from King's Bluff. Property taxes,
as well as trail and anchor maintenance costs all fall on the SCC. If you
enjoy climbing at King's then please help us keep it open by dropping a buck
or so in the donation box each time you visit.
Please contact our King's Bluff Area Rep with questions or comments:
Scott Griggs -
kingsbluff@hotmail.com
Sandstone is great! Steep bucket hauls and vertical cracks. It doesn't get
much better. How about some limestone? Go to Rifle or England, and you'll
find the hardest sport climbs are on limestone. King's Bluff, near
Clarksville, Tennessee doesn't have the hardest routes in the southeast but
it does have a wide diversity of difficulty (5.3-5.13) to test your mettle.
Limestone tends to be more crimpy and power climbing rather than pumpy and
endurance climbing.
Climbing at King's began in the early 1990s spearheaded mainly by Walt
Wilkinson. The resurgence of development in recent years has been the result
of the efforts of several individuals including Joey Redman, Doyle Parsons,
and Mark Ilgner. The routes range in height from 30 to 80 feet and are
almost exclusively sport. A few routes are mixed. A small guidebook is
available at North Cumberland Outfitters in Clarksville and Cumberland
Transit in Nashville. A King's Bluff section will also be available in Chris
Watford's new upcoming comprehensive southeastern guidebook.
Concerns: There is private property where some of the routes top out. Do not
top out but rather rappel back down from the anchors (which are at the top
of all routes). Keep the area clean. Hold the noise down in the quiet zone
(to the left when facing the cliff) so as not to disturb the residents
above. Climb only on established routes.
Parking: The entrance to the bluff is through several businesses. Do not
park in their spaces. Drive through the gates and park in the cul-de-sac at
the trail head.
Directions: Go on I-24 West to exit #11 (Clarksville/Adams). Turn left on
state road 76. Continue about 3 miles, to a four-way intersection (Kmart on
the left). Continue straight for another 2.7 miles to Max Court (just past
the BP station, which is on the right). Turn left onto Max Court.
Read
about the dedication
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