The Southeastern Climbers Coalition

Instead of the long introductions that I usually give for my interviews, I decided to keep this one short and let the interview speak for itself and for good reason. I was recently lucky enough to be to have Will Gadd, one of the world’s most renowned ice and mixed climbers (period), talk to the SCC about life, Atlanta, and a little bit of climbing. Will’s climbing accomplishments are well beyond the norm; on ice, rock using tools when it is too damn cold to use his hands, and hard multipitch. But aside from that, one of the greatest qualities about Will is that he is a climber’s climber. Climbing, at some point, sometimes gets wrapped up in ego in some form or another. The influence and reasons for climbing get blurred. Will’s answers in this interview are refreshing to read and a good reminder of why we pull. Anyway, enjoy. - Paul Morley

SCC: Will, first off, what’s up?

Will Gadd : Life is good--elbow messed up but learning how to woodwork, or more correctly, learning to destroy lots of wood while trying to make it all fit together with the used table saw and router I bought...

SCC: How, when, and where did you start climbing?

WG: Started with my parents when I was really young, but didn't get into it seriously until I was about 16 and started doing a lot of caving trips where we had to climb to explore new passage. So climbing shite rock in the dark comes naturally now, grin, good training.

SCC: When did you start climbing ice?

WG: I did my first real ice route when I was 16 with my dad, and did Polar Circus at 18 in 1985 with Ken Wallator.

SCC: What about ice climbing was so great that kept you swinging tools? Most climbers who I have talked to in southeast (it is kind of warm here) have told me that ice tools are for making margaritas and I think they are getting tired of my answers. Needless to say, I’m sure they would like to hear a new one.

WG: I'm with the guys in the southeast--done more kayaking and paragliding in the southeast than ice climbing, but sure would like to one day! I guess it's the joy of new climbs, places, friends, and the general "wrongness" of ice climbing that keeps me going, it still doesn’t make any sense but sure is fun.

SCC: How did you start focusing on the aesthetics of hard dry tooling as opposed to ice?

WG: I maxed out on ice in the late 80s, the only way to take it away from pure aesthetics and up a level physically was to make the climbs more dangerous. Seemed like a dead-end game, plus there really weren't all that many new routes to do, and I need new routes regularly to keep me interested. But drytooling changed all that, we weren't waiting for big icicles to reach the ground, just climb the rock! Crazy, crazy lines were suddenly possible, lines that just blew my mind, and were also not just about rolling the dice for survival. Still dangerous, but not skinnier and skinnier pillars.

SCC: You have been on the forefront of cutting edge ice and mixed climbing for quite some time, putting up test pieces, and apparently sending everyone else’s test pieces. Where do you see the future of ice/mixed climbing? Do you see the future of ice/ mixed climbing as being more of a focus on style and ethics?

WG: Worrying too much about style and ethics is a waste of time. I try to climb in a way that I enjoy, sometimes that's very "ethical" and other times pretty much a gong show. I look at ethics and style a bit like sexuality--some people might want to roll around naked in feathers and oil, great, but it doesn't work for me (although I haven’t tried it, hmmmm). I do what turns me on, good luck to people who get a buzz in other ways.

SCC: On the topic of style, you were recently quoted in Rock and Ice saying "Climbing spur free is a hell of a lot more fun, way better movement. I was bored when I was climbing with spurs, and I haven't been since I chopped them off." That was pretty profound statement in the use of spurs debate in that, it really differentiates a difference between style and ethic which sometimes gets confused in the ongoing debates within climbing. Care to elaborate on the statement and how it relates to climbing in general?

WG: Many climbers such as myself often confuse ethics with style; ethics are about important things like not messing the world up, style is more personal. I'm more worried about the jet travel I do to climb than the style I climb in when I get there; jet travel isn't all that ethical from a planetary perspective, and how I climb once I get off the jet is pretty irrelevant in comparison. I get a laugh out of most “ethics" discussions including my own, they are normally more about posturing and ego-stroking than any sort of real ethical dilemma. The mountain could care less whether we climb it with spurs, no oxygen, fixed rope, bolts vs. pitons, single-push vs. alpine style vs. expedition style, whatever. It's always a challenge to be honest and clear with myself about why I climb, and then also honest with the world outside my head. My ego is a real SOB to keep under control, sneaky bastard has a way of twisting things around.

SCC: Where is your favorite(s) place to climb ice?

WG: Anyplace new.

SCC: Favorite place(s) for rock climbing?

WG: Same--I just like exploring.

SCC: You recently sent a long time project “Yambushi.” You were quoted as to saying that it was just one of the best times that you had ever had. Can you tell us some more about the route and why it meant so much to you?

WG: Raphael Slawinski and I started work on “Yamabushi” in about '99, but it kept beating us up. The rock was problematic, it was hard climbing, and were fundamentally a bit lazy or out of shape for hard climbing a lot of the time. To finally get it done was great because the climbing is just super fun, and worth all the work put into it.

SCC: Have you ever climbed in the southeast and if so, where?

WG: I almost got arrested at Lookout last year. I was doing a show in Atlanta and drove out to Lookout after the show, ran into the base of the rock, weird that there were no trails. There was also this weird chipped line up about 100 feet off the deck, but I beat around in the bush until I found a decent line of pockets up the slab and went for it. Hit the top, climbed over a fence with all these "no climbing signs," kinda put it all together when a local told me I was going to be arrested. Hid my chalkbag and shoes in my shirt tied around my waist, continued on my "run." It's a real shame climbing isn't allowed there, but it is a rather deceptive chunk of rock, that perfect little wave about halfway up is steeper than it looks and the gradual angle of increase on the slab could put people in real trouble. I honestly didn't figure it out until the top, a climber friend told me that night (great gym in Atlanta BTW) that it was heavy police situation... I've also climbed (and paddled) at the New a half-dozen times, some place fun in Arkansas I can't remember the name of, few other places. I really like the Southeast, I'd like to spend more time there

SCC: Favorite music?

WG: Mid-eighties to early '90s punk.

SCC: Best climbing food when on the move?

WG: Pizza.

SCC: What else keeps you busy outside of climbing and what do you like about it

WG: Paragliding, running, skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, whatever looks fun. I also do a lot of writing and film work, somehow I stay pretty busy. Plus I gotta figure out that damn table saw and router, I'm an idiot with fractions and yet these are very important to make the wood bits line up right. Just finished my first piece, it looks, well, not great. Respect to people who can really work with wood, it's hard.

SCC: Alright Will, time for the five questions:

1) What has been making all of those crop circles?

WG: People having fun with the people who believe in crop circles. Saw a good show on that the other night, comical to see those guys making the circle and then the believers talking about UFOS, love it!

2) What is your dream date?

WG: I've got her, Kim Csizmazia. We're having our first baby in June, psyched!

***CONGRATS TO WILL AND KIM!!!!*** - SCC

3) Is the city of Atlantis really lost?

WG: Atlanta is definitely not lost, I was there last week

***Ladies and Gents, after reading his response, I think Will misread my question, but that poses another really good question.  haha. Is ATLANTA really lost?

4) If you had to go back into time to meet anyone over coffee or beer, who would it be?

WG: Myself when I was 18.

5) And the most asked question in history. Why?

WG: So I could smarten myself up a bit.

SCC: Will, any other thoughts you would like to leave for our readers and members about climbing in general, whatever their style?

WG: As we say here in Canuckista, "Give 'er!" Go until something stops you, then try again.

SCC:Thanks Will for you time. Safe climbing and good times.