Kings Bluff TN
Kings Bluff is located in Clarksville, Tennessee and was donated to The Southeastern Climbers Coalition in 2002. The limestone crag (9.78 acres) has over 160 routes traversing the Cumberland River (1,673.85 linear feet) and is now owned and maintained by the SCC!! Primarily a sport climbing area, this area has routes ranging from 5.3 to 5.13 and will put your crimp strength to the test. Local climbers sponsor an annual cookout to help raise funds to pay the taxes and upkeep of the cliffline.
A message from Scott Griggs (Kings Bluff Property Manager) on June 16, 2006 -
The gate at King's is no longer kept locked. If you are the first car to arrive you should find the
gate closed but unlocked. If you are the last car out pease close the gate behind you.
Otherwise the gate should be open. There are no camp sites at the bluff. If you want to
sleep in the car or the back of your truck be my guest but please close the gate at night so as to not promote the idea that the park is open to the general party crowd after dark.
Please contact our King's Bluff Area Reps with questions or comments:
Scott Griggs - kingsbluff@hotmail.com
Newton Dominey - newton@cragcoolsprings.com
Property taxes,
as well as trail and anchor maintenance costs are paid by the SCC so help out
and become a member. If you enjoy climbing at King's then please help us keep
it open by dropping a buck or so in the donation box each time you visit.
Sandstone is great! Steep bucket hauls and vertical cracks. It doesn't get
much better. How about some limestone? Go to Rifle or England, and you'll
find the hardest sport climbs are on limestone. King's Bluff, near
Clarksville, Tennessee doesn't have the hardest routes in the southeast but
it does have a wide diversity of difficulty (5.3-5.13) to test your mettle.
Limestone tends to be more crimpy and power climbing rather than pumpy and
endurance climbing.
Climbing at King's began in the early 1990s spearheaded mainly by Walt
Wilkinson. The resurgence of development in recent years has been the result
of the efforts of several individuals including Joey Redman, Doyle Parsons,
and Mark Ilgner. The routes range in height from 30 to 80 feet and are
almost exclusively sport. A few routes are mixed. Local climbers are currently repairing and replacing
anchors and gear at the crag with the help of The SCC. Please donate to help keep the crag in tip top shape.
Kings Bluff Guidebook:
A small guidebook is available at North Cumberland Outfitters in Clarksville (accross and just down the street from King's Bluff)and Cumberland Transit in Nashville. A King's Bluff section is now available in Chris
Watford's "The Dixie Craggers Atlas". You can get a copy of The DCA at http://www.dixiecraggersatlas.com/
Tips for Climbing at Kings Bluff:
* There is private property where some of the routes top out. Do not top out but rather rappel back down from the anchors (which are at the top of all routes).
* Keep the area clean. It is your crag!
* Hold the noise down in the quiet zone so as not to disturb the residents above.
* Climb only on established routes.
Parking: The entrance to the bluff is through several businesses. Do not
park in their spaces. Drive through the gates and park in the cul-de-sac at
the trail head.
Directions Go on I-24 West to exit #11 (Clarksville/Adams). Turn left on
state road 76. Continue about 3 miles, to a four-way intersection (Kmart on
the left). Continue straight for another 2.7 miles to Max Court (just past
the BP station, which is on the right). Turn left onto Max Court.
Read
about the dedication of Kings Bluff
Copyright © by The Southeastern Climbers Coalition All Right Reserved.
Published on: 2006-06-27 (10100 reads)
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