Castle Rock, TN Castle Rock is now open as the Southeastern Climbers Coalition has reached an agreement to lease the climbing cliff and an access easement. We have worked out the details of the lease, which was signed in late December 2005.
Castle Rock is located approximately 3 miles northwest of downtown Jasper, Tennessee. You catch a glimpse of this proud buttress as you drive up the hill towards Foster Falls (look to your right above the Castle Rock church). Castle Rock is located on private land and has technically been closed to the climbing public. In the fall of 2004, The Southeastern Climbers Coalition representatives Brad McLeod and Kirk Brode began negotiations with the landowners to open access to this area. A verbal committment was reached and a lease was signed during the winter of 2005.
Castle Rock is approximately 1/2 mile long of 80 to 120 ft. tall bullet sandstone with over fifty sport and traditional routes. Castle Rock is known for many 5.11 and 5.12 sport climbs and one of the hardest routes in the state of Tennessee - Apes on Acid (5.13d). Castle Rock is listed as a 4 star (out of 5) crag in Tim Toula’s "Rock and Road" guidebook.
The SCC Area Reps and Property Managers for Castle Rock are Steve Deweese (prowindow@mindspring.com) and Jerry Roberts (
jerryclimber@hotmail.com). If you have any comments on Castle Rock such as reporting bad bolts, fundraiser ideas, trail day work ideas or anything else, shoot us an email!
The SCC would like to thank the many donors and volunteers that have worked to make this project a reality. In particular, we would like to thank The Access Fund www.accessfund.org and Shawn Tierney for their continued support and logistics to help open this cliff.
Access: Castle Rock is located on private land and currently leased by The SCC. If you have a chance to attend a fundraiser like the one held at TBA Gym on Halloween then throw a few dollars in the jar to help donate to pay the lease. If you cant donate cash then show up at a trail day or help repair anchors. Any donation of time or energy will help. The long range goal for Castle Rock is to eventually purchase the cliff and allow the climbing public to utilize this tract in the same open manner that we operate Kings Bluff, Boat Rock and Jamestown.
You can donate to Castle Rock or renew your SCC membership by clicking here:Go to the drop down menu under Castle Rock and you can renew your SCC membership and you can donate to the lease and get a Castle Rock sticker.
Directions to top parking area: From Chattanooga, Tennessee: Take I-24 north towards Nashville. Drive about 20 miles, crossing over the Tennessee River. Take the off ramp to Hwy. 28 and go north. The Roy Acuff Inn is there at the intersection (on your right) if you need a place to stay. Go about 2 miles north and take the off ramp to Hwy. 41. Go left and under the bridge, passing a Dairy Queen on your right and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at the light (courthouse on your right) onto Hwy. 41 heading towards Tracy City. Drive about 1.2 miles and veer left (staying on Hwy. 41) at the light and head up the mountain a total of 4.5 miles (if daylight, admire the crag on your right as you drive up the hill).
At the top of the mountain take a right on Sequatchie Mountain Road (the old Mountain Mart is on your left as you turn). Drive about 2.5 miles and you will see an old dirt road and open area on your right. Turn right into dirt area and park. The lat. long coordinates for the top parking area are: N35.11' 723 W85.63' 262. Park where you can and walk the jeep trail (30 minute hike) towards the Castle Rock point. The old jeep trail will lead you to a small powerline (veer left), crossing a small stream and heading out towards the point. The trail will end near the main wall and "Predator" will be to your left (facing the valley). The lat. long coordinates for the main point at Castle Rock are: N35 10' 461 W85 63' 284. You can punch the lat. long coordinates into Terraserver www.terraserver.com for an aerial map and topo map.
Directions to the lower parking area:
The SCC is currently working on the trail in from the lower parking (spring 2006) so please be patient. In the mean time, park at the top parking area and walk down to the crag. Parking is probably more secure in the lower area (out of site, out of mind) but still dont leave any valuables and lock your car. To get to the lower parking area - Heading up the mountain on Hwy. 40/150, you will pass the large sandstone sign marking Greystone on your right. Drive 0.6 miles further up the hill. Turn right at an old logging road (you will see a castle rock sticker on the right metal gate post). Drive up the steep - old gravel road - you will need a relatively high clearance vehicle (or 4x4) - to the parking area. We are currently scheduled to have a work day to fix the rutted areas on the gravel drive up.... so please be patient and let us know if you can help. The parking area is called Zeeman’s Landing. Park here and begin your hike to Castle Rock (40 minutes) - following the small wooden signs and pink and black flagging tape. (Or you can try the second access drive in.) A trail is currently being designed (construction in Winter 2005) linking the parking lot to the cliffline. The trail is approximately 8,100 linear feet and rises approximately 300 ft. The hike from the bottom is expected to take approximately 30 to 45 minutes depending on your fitness and pack weight. There are wooden signs along the way pointing the way to Castle Rock. The GPS coordinates for the entrance to the old logging road to Zeeman’s Landing are: 35 07 18.6 N 85 38 44.6 W
Suggested Routes at Castle Rock:
Optional Ethics - 5.10ish (sport) **
Kottcamps Route - 5.10+(sport)
Powerline Crack - 5.11 (trad)
Steve D Route - 5.11- (sport) **
New Route - 5.11+ (sport) **
Copperhead - 5.12 (sport)
Predator - 5.12d (sport)***
Juggernaut - 5.13 (sport)
Apes on Acid - 5.13d (sport)***
Tips for Castle Rock:
* Please keep noise to a minimum as the landowners live directly below the crag.
* Pick up any trash you may see. We are guest at this crag. Help keep it clean.
*
* Support the crag! Donate to the Castle Rock lease and anchor fund.
* Help out with trail days and anchor repair work at the crag.
* Be safe and have fun!
Camping: There is currently no camping at Castle Rock. Please drive to nearby Foster Falls. The Roy Acuff Inn is a clean hotel at the intersection of I-24 and Hwy. 28.
Amenities: Restuarants (Dairy Queen, Rafael's Italian restuarant (Pizza), etc.) and groceries (Ingles grocery) can be found in downtown Jasper, Tennessee (3 miles away).
Castle Rock maps: Topozone - USGS link: http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=16&n=3885442&e=624695&s=50&size=m&datum=nad83&layer=DRG25
Terraserver USGS link: http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=13&Z=16&X=390&Y=2428&W=2
Terraserver aerial map link: http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=1&S=13&Z=16&X=390&Y=2428&W=2
Castle Rock cliff coordinates (southernmost tip) : UTM 16 624695E 3885442N (WGS84/NAD83)
Copyright © by The Southeastern Climbers Coalition All Right Reserved.
