Castle Rock Update Jan 12, 2016: Due to the sensitive nature of the drinking water source running through the crag, the lower landowners at Castle Rock have asked that we no longer allow dogs in an effort to protect their drinking water. It is very important that we get this message out to the climbing community so as not to create a further access issue.
This rule is effective IMMEDIATELY. We will be posting new signage at Castle Rock in the coming weeks. Please help us spread the word!
An aerial view of Castle Rock. Photo by Harrison Shull
Due to persistent problems of trash dumping and hunting at the upper parking area and approach, the SCC has negotiated with bottom landowner, Ms. Phillips, to lease a new parking area and approach trail to Castle Rock from the below the cliff. The lower parking area and approach trail are now the preferred method to get to Castle Rock. A special thanks to WILD TRAILS for the grant monies to make these improvements.
CLICK HERE FOR A LINK TO DIRECTIONS TO THE LOWER PARKING AREA AND APPROACH TRAIL
Check out the following photos for the new parking and approach beta.
Castle Rock Drive
Look for this sign
Proceed Slowly down the gravel drive, 20 MPH Maximum, to the SCC Lot
Park in the new SCC lot
Read the rules in the kiosk and notify Ms. Phillips
Proceed on foot to Castle Rock via new approach trail
Follow the Trail Signs to Castle Rock Climbing
History and Access Information:
Castle Rock is now open as the Southeastern Climbers Coalition has reached an agreement to lease the climbing cliff and an access easement. We have worked out the details of the lease, which was signed in late December 2005.
Castle Rock is located approximately 3 miles northwest of downtown Jasper, Tennessee. Castle Rock makes a proud sandstone buttress that keeps watch over Sequatchie Valley and appears to be the gateway to the South Cumberland. You catch a glimpse of this proud buttress as you drive up the hill towards Foster Falls as you look to your right above the Castle Rock church. Castle Rock is located on private land and has technically been closed to the climbing public. In the fall of 2004, The Southeastern Climbers Coalition representatives Brad McLeod and Kirk Brode began negotiations with the landowners to open access to this area. A verbal committment was reached and a lease was signed during the winter of 2005.
Castle Rock is approximately 1/2 mile long of 80 to 120 ft. tall bullet sandstone with over fifty sport and traditional routes. Castle Rock is known for many 5.11 and 5.12 sport climbs and one of the hardest routes in the state of Tennessee, Apes on Acid at 5.13d. Castle Rock is know for its great face climbing being less steep in angle than it's South Cumberland counterpart, Foster Falls.
- General Regulations:
- Castle Rock is PRIVATELY owned. The SCC leases parking and access to Castle Rock annually, so please be on your best behavior and be very respectful of the landowner.
- DO NOT ENTER THE ROCK YARD, and be respectful of the rock workers.
- DRIVE SLOWLY. The Castle Rock driveway is both a private and commercial drive for the rock workers. The speed limit is 20 MPH.
- DO NOT PARK if the SCC Lot is FULL, and DO NOT block any driveways or roads.
- Dogs must be on leashes at all times. Ms. Philips has had dogs approach her house and her sons house and this is not ok. Dogs must be leashed AT ALL TIMES.
- Pack out your trash. Pick up any trash you see.
- Private landowner, Ms. Phillips, gets her water from the intermittent stream at the top of Castle Rock. DO NOT tamper with pipes or water source. DO NOT dispose of human waste within 200 feet of that water source.
- Please keep noise to a minimum as the landowners live directly below the crag.
- NO FIRES.
- No camping at Castle Rock. Camping is available at nearby Foster Falls.
- Ms. Phillips is a nice, southern lady who likes climbers, so let's keep it that way!
- Climbing Regulations:
- Be safe, have fun.
- Bolting: The installation of new lead bolts and top anchors, and the replacement of rusty or otherwise suspect bolts requires written authorization from the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. Contact
- Leave No Trace:
- Keep this area beautiful and clean. Clean up after yourselves, your peers, and your pets. Lead by example and pick it up on the first pass.
- Please read our crag minimal impact flier
- Driving Directions:
- From Chattanooga:
Head west on I-24 and get off at exit 155. Go north on 28 and get off at the Jasper exit (sign for Foster Falls). Head left of the exit ramp onto Main Street, West 72. After passing through the town of Jasper, take a right at signs reading TN150/US41 north toward Tracy City. Stay on TN150/US41 as it splits left and heads up the mountain. The entrance to Castle Rock marked by the Grey Stone rock is on the right 2.2 miles up the mountain from the split. Take this right turn and head down the private drive for several hundred feet until you reach a fork. Take a left at this fork, and stay left at another fork looking for the sign for SCC Lot. The SCC lot will be a couple hundred feet down the road on your right marked by signs.
- Click here for a detailed map to the Castle Rock parking area.
- From Nashville:
Take I-24 East and get off at Exit 134. Take a right off the ramp and merge onto Main Street. About a mile down the road, turn left onto Fairmont Ave. Take a slight right as Fairmont turns into US41/Tracy Rd. Stay on this road through Tracy City until it comes to a T at a light. Turn right onto Main St./US150/US41. Stay on this highway past Foster Falls. As it starts to go down the mountain, keep a lookout for the left turn into the entrance of Castle Rock.
See the above map and directions from the private drive to the SCC Castle Rock parking lot.
If you have any comments on Castle Rock such as reporting bad bolts, fundraiser ideas, trail day work ideas or anything else, shoot us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Partnering Organizations, Volunteers, and Donors:
Special Thanks to all of the sponsors that helped open Castle Rock!
WILD TRAILS, Jerry Roberts, Steve and Amy Deweese, Shona Pierce, Sean Cobourn, Jen Rawlins, Sam Leflore, Luis Rodriquez, The Tennessee Bouldering Authority (TBA) Gym, Rock Creek Outfitters, Ashley, Ollie & Brad McLeod, Curvature Landscapes, Dave Draper, Brent McDaniels, Dave Wilson, Gina Picard, Paul Morley, Jim Corbett (aka Pappy), Richard Decredico, The Atlanta Climbing Club, Gary Latimer, Sam Leflore, Ed Williams, Chris Watford, Ben Faber, Sasha Digiulian, Palmer Henson, Curt and Betty Jo Merchant, Will Eccleston, Gus Fontenot & Planet Rock, Cooper Roberts & Sessions video, Dave Pollard, and Michael Crowder..
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Published on: 2005-10-04 (26844 reads)
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